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We are still having some size issues and a few quality control problems.
Last week I pulled some shields and liners to count out and pre-stuff for our next batch going to Kenya. I expected to find liners that were too big, since I still have many from the batches of generous-sized ones that were made a couple of months ago. As I come across those, I set them aside to be reserged (a big thank you to Donna for taking many batches home to measure and sort). But what surprised me was also finding shields that were cut/finished too small!
The liners must finish at 8.5" square to be able to fit in a perfectly cut and sewn shield. If the liners are larger or the shields are smaller, they're not useable together. If it takes me several minutes to insert a liner, sitting down with a table in front of me and a useful chopstick in my hand, imagine the difficulty a girl will have in the field!
I think the solution for the shield sizes is to only use ones that have been cut on the Accuquilt. They're totally accurate and a standard SCANT 1/4" seam allowance makes them come out the right dimension. And please, when topstitching shields, stitch only 1/8" from the edge (remembering to back stitch at the pocket fold edges). Any farther from the edge, and we lose stuffing space inside.
We cut the liner flannel to 9" squares, which means you MUST cut off 1/4" all around as you serge to have them end up measuring 8.5" square. No more, no less. If your serger isn't marked for 1/4", see if you can mark it with masking tape or a Sharpie. Both width and length need to be 8.5" to fit well in our shields.
And while we're on quality control, please don't change anything in the directions without express permission from me. Here are some other things I'm coming across:
BAGS
The little orange DFG label should be neatly centered and sewn down 3.5" from the upper edge, before any other sewing is done, using ORANGE thread! We've had some pretty sloppy sewing on these, using a variety of colors. I start sewing around the edge at the center bottom of the label, using matching orange thread, and overlap 3-4 stitches where I end. I just ordered a new batch of labels, so please let me know if you need some.
Don't cut drawstrings less than 36" The ends should be cut at a sharp 90-degree angle, Each should measure one yard plus the triangles (so triangle tip to triangle tip will be a generous 37").
We've received some bags with drawstrings that have ends that are uncomfortably hard or charred due to burning. We don't want our drawstrings to ravel, but we do want them to look and feel good. Here's a website that shows different methods of finishing ends to keep them from raveling. Do try any that interest you on a scrap first--I suspect that the results vary due to fiber content. She doesn't mention Fray-stop, which dries soft, which is preferable to Fraycheck, which leaves a hard edge. However, I've read that Fraycheck dries soft if you iron it while still wet. I'd definitely use freezer paper, wax paper, etc. between the iron and the liquid.
We use colorful, good quality 1/2" or 5/8" twill tape for grosgrain for the drawstrings. We want them to last 3 years with daily use! If you're sewing some bags, we're happy to receive them without the drawstrings, and will pick a color of quality grosgrain or twill tape that goes well with the bag fabric. I buy the ribbon/twill in huge quantities, so it's much cheaper than you can find locally, even with coupons. We don't use white or cream, because they'll show dirt/grime too easily.
Remember--the bags are where we like to use our very most attractive fabric. We want the drawstrings to be as attractive and appropriately colored as the bags they close. We start each bag with a piece of cotton fabric that measures 12" x 29". I do reluctantly reject fabric that has too light a background, simply considering how it will look after repeatedly being set on the ground. If you're not sure, we're happy to pass unsuitable donations on to another nonprofit that can use it, but you can read our fabric guidelines in an earlier post.
Everything you make is important to the girl who receives it. It should be attractive and well constructed. If you goof up and find a mistake, please correct it only in a way that would keep it looking and functioning as it was supposed to originally. I just threw out a bag of shields given to me that had a variety of errors, some corrected to make them look even worse. Make sure your tension is correct on your machine, make sure seams catch all the layers of fabric they're supposed to. Measure frequently. Make thread choices that look right. Be aware where you're supposed to be sewing at 1/8" or scant 1/4" or 3/8"--those seam allowances are crucial in different places! Secure ends of serging, and backstitch shields and bag where necessary. On our regular sewing machines, we use only straight stitching--no zigzag or specialty stitches. Obviously, I'd prefer to receive 5 perfectly sewn items than 50 sloppy ones!
I'd like to thank Nancy and Becky again for their recent donation of sergers. With 8 liners and one bag needing serging for each kit, we use sergers a lot. When they are happy, they do beautiful work. But, there are many times that we've been very frustrated when a serger isn't performing well, and we can't figure out why. Last workday, we spent hours trying to get our new serger to sew perfectly as it had been doing the night before. It was a long time before we decided to check the needles, as this machine had only been used maybe an hour total in its life. But that was the problem! One needle was bent--the lesson being to guide your fabric, never pull. This YouTube video about using a serger will make you smile--I laughed out loud in a couple of places.
I apologies for the lack of photos--I've got my life in dozens of boxes moving between two houses, and have no idea where my cords are.
Our July workday is on Sunday, July 19th, 10:00 to 5:00 at Our Sewing Room. We'd love to have you join us. If you'd like to sew or serge, bring your machine. There are a few available to borrow, but we usually have many more volunteers than machines. We also need people to press, affix snaps, cut, and use the Accuquilt. Bringing a good pair of scissors, pins and a seam ripper is a good idea.
I urge you to scroll down through previous entries if you're new to this blog. There's lots of information!
Last week I pulled some shields and liners to count out and pre-stuff for our next batch going to Kenya. I expected to find liners that were too big, since I still have many from the batches of generous-sized ones that were made a couple of months ago. As I come across those, I set them aside to be reserged (a big thank you to Donna for taking many batches home to measure and sort). But what surprised me was also finding shields that were cut/finished too small!
The liners must finish at 8.5" square to be able to fit in a perfectly cut and sewn shield. If the liners are larger or the shields are smaller, they're not useable together. If it takes me several minutes to insert a liner, sitting down with a table in front of me and a useful chopstick in my hand, imagine the difficulty a girl will have in the field!
I think the solution for the shield sizes is to only use ones that have been cut on the Accuquilt. They're totally accurate and a standard SCANT 1/4" seam allowance makes them come out the right dimension. And please, when topstitching shields, stitch only 1/8" from the edge (remembering to back stitch at the pocket fold edges). Any farther from the edge, and we lose stuffing space inside.
We cut the liner flannel to 9" squares, which means you MUST cut off 1/4" all around as you serge to have them end up measuring 8.5" square. No more, no less. If your serger isn't marked for 1/4", see if you can mark it with masking tape or a Sharpie. Both width and length need to be 8.5" to fit well in our shields.
And while we're on quality control, please don't change anything in the directions without express permission from me. Here are some other things I'm coming across:
BAGS
The little orange DFG label should be neatly centered and sewn down 3.5" from the upper edge, before any other sewing is done, using ORANGE thread! We've had some pretty sloppy sewing on these, using a variety of colors. I start sewing around the edge at the center bottom of the label, using matching orange thread, and overlap 3-4 stitches where I end. I just ordered a new batch of labels, so please let me know if you need some.
Don't cut drawstrings less than 36" The ends should be cut at a sharp 90-degree angle, Each should measure one yard plus the triangles (so triangle tip to triangle tip will be a generous 37").
We've received some bags with drawstrings that have ends that are uncomfortably hard or charred due to burning. We don't want our drawstrings to ravel, but we do want them to look and feel good. Here's a website that shows different methods of finishing ends to keep them from raveling. Do try any that interest you on a scrap first--I suspect that the results vary due to fiber content. She doesn't mention Fray-stop, which dries soft, which is preferable to Fraycheck, which leaves a hard edge. However, I've read that Fraycheck dries soft if you iron it while still wet. I'd definitely use freezer paper, wax paper, etc. between the iron and the liquid.
We use colorful, good quality 1/2" or 5/8" twill tape for grosgrain for the drawstrings. We want them to last 3 years with daily use! If you're sewing some bags, we're happy to receive them without the drawstrings, and will pick a color of quality grosgrain or twill tape that goes well with the bag fabric. I buy the ribbon/twill in huge quantities, so it's much cheaper than you can find locally, even with coupons. We don't use white or cream, because they'll show dirt/grime too easily.
Remember--the bags are where we like to use our very most attractive fabric. We want the drawstrings to be as attractive and appropriately colored as the bags they close. We start each bag with a piece of cotton fabric that measures 12" x 29". I do reluctantly reject fabric that has too light a background, simply considering how it will look after repeatedly being set on the ground. If you're not sure, we're happy to pass unsuitable donations on to another nonprofit that can use it, but you can read our fabric guidelines in an earlier post.
Everything you make is important to the girl who receives it. It should be attractive and well constructed. If you goof up and find a mistake, please correct it only in a way that would keep it looking and functioning as it was supposed to originally. I just threw out a bag of shields given to me that had a variety of errors, some corrected to make them look even worse. Make sure your tension is correct on your machine, make sure seams catch all the layers of fabric they're supposed to. Measure frequently. Make thread choices that look right. Be aware where you're supposed to be sewing at 1/8" or scant 1/4" or 3/8"--those seam allowances are crucial in different places! Secure ends of serging, and backstitch shields and bag where necessary. On our regular sewing machines, we use only straight stitching--no zigzag or specialty stitches. Obviously, I'd prefer to receive 5 perfectly sewn items than 50 sloppy ones!
I'd like to thank Nancy and Becky again for their recent donation of sergers. With 8 liners and one bag needing serging for each kit, we use sergers a lot. When they are happy, they do beautiful work. But, there are many times that we've been very frustrated when a serger isn't performing well, and we can't figure out why. Last workday, we spent hours trying to get our new serger to sew perfectly as it had been doing the night before. It was a long time before we decided to check the needles, as this machine had only been used maybe an hour total in its life. But that was the problem! One needle was bent--the lesson being to guide your fabric, never pull. This YouTube video about using a serger will make you smile--I laughed out loud in a couple of places.
I apologies for the lack of photos--I've got my life in dozens of boxes moving between two houses, and have no idea where my cords are.
Our July workday is on Sunday, July 19th, 10:00 to 5:00 at Our Sewing Room. We'd love to have you join us. If you'd like to sew or serge, bring your machine. There are a few available to borrow, but we usually have many more volunteers than machines. We also need people to press, affix snaps, cut, and use the Accuquilt. Bringing a good pair of scissors, pins and a seam ripper is a good idea.
I urge you to scroll down through previous entries if you're new to this blog. There's lots of information!
